The weather has been close to freezing the past few days and I put so many layers on I look like the original oompa loompas, especially when I wear all of my purple. I've heard that wool is the best material for warmth, yet the elderly women take it one step further. Instead of wearing lambskin, they sport full regal bearskin coats, also known as fur coats. It is not just a fur collar, but full fuzzy and authentic fur coats. They do love their meat here in Madrid, maybe a little too much?
Metro rides are adventures in themselves. Musicians will come on the train itself and play their accordions or ukuleles, looking for gifts of spare change. I am most impressed by the pianist or violinist in the corridors of the metro, playing fluidly amongst all the bustle of the underground city. On my train ride to school in the morning, I also noticed communal newspapers left in the compartments above that someone will read for a short train ride and leave it for the next person. I appreciate the unspoken courtesy.
Spaniards are much more...lenient wih their personal space. If you are walking on a relatively crowded street and you get bumped, there is no need for an apology because both parties just move on and accept that the other has places to go. Lines at coffee shops or convenient stores don't really exist; it is more of a clump.
Going along with the limited personal space is the accepted practice of staring. Apparently, it is perfectly normal to stare for about five seconds, and then look away. It is similar to our attempts at hiding glances, but there is freedom to do so here. As much as it made me uncomfortable at first, I now like to stare back and embrace the freedom. Sidenote: Do not smile while staring; some people may get the wrong idea and think you want something more, if you know what I mean. I naturally smile at people and learned this all too late. If I am in a particularly good mood and know I will be smiling, I avert my eyes from other people (teehee). Interestingly enough, the pigeons also don't respect personal space. Why do I have to get out of their way?? It is supposed to be the other way around! ...I don't like birds much.
Though I must say, madrileños know how to do tapas. Just off the busy street Gran Via, we ventured to an awesome tapas bar called El Tigre that we heard was a must-try. Albeit El Tigre was filled to the brim with people, it was also filled with moose heads on the walls, tiger skin drapes, and gigantic mojitos. For 6 euros, we found ourself double-fisting one huge mojito while also enjoying the free tapas that come with it. Delicious, to say the least.
I have been seeking out a more authentic madrileña experience. I can only be bombarded with promoters offering free chupitas (shots) to the huge group of Americans deciding where to go on a Friday night in Puerta del Sol so many times. Some madrileño friends invited us to the discoteca Zombie; they described it as one of the coolest local scenes in Madrid- a mix of rock and electronic. I made a last-minute decision and decided to check it out, not realizing how late it was and that I actually had class at 9:30 AM the next morning. Bianca decided to come along too and we were greeted with quite a different experience, and smell, at Zombie. A mix of punk, preppy, promiscuous, and undecided individuals were all jamming to the music and Bianca, Vanessa, and I soon became a part of the mix. Vanessa and I joined the mosh pit and after I rescued her from a tumble, we got out. Still, this experience was really special for me. Leaving the club smelling like a chain-smoker, I don't think I will be going back soon but it was very cool to experience with our new Madrid friend Prospero.
To conclude some of my observations, if you don't know what to say, repeat after me: Vale. Vale. Vale. Vale. Vale. It is the national filler word for 'Okay' and 'Good' and 'Alright' or just to say for kicks, really. The most common greeting phrase: ¿Qué tal? , translating to 'Whats Up?'. I mistakenly answered this saying 'Bien' and recieved some chuckles from two Spanish men. Great, mags.
I think I have rambled on long enough. Yet my very last thing- I went on a run today for the first time with Bianca (long overdue) and we were expecting strange looks because not many Spaniards 'go for a run'. Yes we received a few, but turns out it doesn't matter that much. I'm not going to be able to become Spaniard and remember all of their customs and norms and styles. I can do my best to respect their cultural practices, but I should not concern myself with doing something wrong or inappropriate. I think in the first couple weeks I have been avoiding stepping on toes- an impossible task. Saying something wrong or giving myself away as a foreigner has not be as bad as I imagined. I can only be me, as fun as it sounds to be a true madrileña. Vale.
Un Abrazo,
Maggie
